On the night of March 16 I stayed at Fontainebleau State Park in Louisiana. It had been recommended by a fellow traveler from Whitewater as being close to New Orleans, clean and pretty. It was, in fact, a very nice campground and well suited to my needs (i.e. cheap, clean, electric campsite near showerhouse.) When I booked, I liked that it would allow me to drive over the Lake Ponchetrain causeway- which was remembered fondly by my aunt. I found my site and then went for a short run down to the lake - a spot I would have lingered longer had the sun done the same.
I woke at six but lounged about rather than getting up right away. I checked Google Maps for how long my drive would be to go visit downtown New Orleans - and I realized if I didn't hurry I would hit rush hour crossing the causeway. (I didn't realize I was an hour away...thought I was only a half hour.)
Anyway - I did hit traffic. Lanes and lanes of it. The bridge/causeway IS amazing - and I saw the sunrise over it - but reading about its pollution and seeing all that traffic sullied the view.
There is traffic all over New Orleans, and the street layout and traffic lights are not up to the task. (Try not to have to turn left, if you visit.) I drove all over looking for free parking - willing to take the trolley from a distance - but found nothing convenient. Ultimately paid $20 to park near the Westin Hotel/One Canal Street around 9:30 a.m. I decided to ride the trolley - having heard it was a great way to see the city.
I somewhat impulsively decided to exit the trolley after only a couple of stops - at Bourbon Street. World famous Bourbon Street. Folks, it's not my cup of tea. I found it dirty, full of delivery trucks and cars, unsafe, loud, smelly, and crowded with people experiencing homelessness. Behind this dingy veil I could tell there was unique architecture and rich history - but it was often behind locked gates or through unsafe alleys. I cut over to streets that had been recommended - but found more of the same. While I'm sure I passed jazz and blues clubs, hidden cafes and gardens, and places of historical significance - I could not look past the cheap t-shirt shops, the litter-filled streets and the overall grunge.
I should have stayed on the trolley.
As I stood in line at Cafe du Mond with a hundred others, I realized that I wasn't seeing the best of this city. I was seeing a tired New Orleans trying to put a brave face on for the tourists. A street performer started packing up their gear, and sang to us about the rainstorm coming. I stepped out of line as the rain started falling. I walked in the rain back to my car, and headed out of town.
I saw the SuperDome ahead and thought it might be fate. I tried circling it to find the Rebirth statue. (It depicts ALS hero Steve Gleason blocking the punt in the first Saints game back at the SuperDome after Hurricane Katrina.) I couldn't see the statue anywhere. There appeared to be nowhere easy to park. The rain continued to fall steadily. As I debated getting out of my car, a perfect Ella/Louis song came on the radio "Isn't This A Lovely Day?", and I decided to move on. The bad weather would continue, and I would continue to feel a little desolate. There were nothing but tough days ahead for New Orleans. But Ella and Louis got me through. And they'll get the residents of NOLA through too.
As for me, I'm looking down the road to Austin, and to family.
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