In April 2023 I had the honor and privilege of sojourning with my friend Gina. The design of our trip was simple. I left in mid-March for a long car camping swing to the south and west. I took some of her camping gear and kept it stored in my roof rack. Then in mid April Gina flew in to Las Vegas with only a carry-on bag. I picked her up, and we headed for Utah. We had a blast camping and exploring together, visiting 5 national parks and 3 state parks in five days.
Though it was high on our wish list, one thing we weren't able to do was hike The Narrows in Zion National Park. A local outfitter told us that the trail was closed due to high water levels. They suggested Kannara Falls, a similar slot canyon hike only 45 minutes away, as an alternative. It sounded great, but Gina and I talked it over and decided to explore other trails within Zion instead.
After five wonderful days of adventure, I dropped Gina back at LAS, then drove back up to the Zion area. I checked into a cheap but clean motel off the main drag in St. George and spent some time reorienting myself to solo travel. I don't remember exactly what I did, but I definitely missed my friend. With no one to impress or plan for, I may have resorted to fried chicken and trash TV. (Keeping it real.)
The next day I got back to business and planned out my future travels. I remembered the tip about Kanarra Falls and, after a bit more research, I decided to try it that afternoon. I bought a pair of neoprene socks, a trekking pole and a $12 trail permit. Then I was ready to go.
A few facts: Kannara Falls Trail is 3.8 miles in and out, with just over 700 feet of elevation gain. It is a popular trail, but the permitting process holds the limit to 150 hikers per day. The afternoon that I was there - April 24th - I only saw 20-30 people the whole time.
The trail is managed and maintained by the Town of Kannarraville, and is described on their website as "a moderate to strenuous slot canyon hike requiring hikers to be submerged in ankle to knee deep water and climbing up and down steep rocky slopes." That's a fair description - but it should be noted that in April of 2023 the water level was just about double that, due to record level precipitation in previous months. Kanarra Creek was running high! The good news was that the weather forecast was clear so there was no chance of flash flooding - always something to be wary of with slot canyon hikes.
The first part of the hike was an old access road. Signage was good, and I followed it to a riverside trail that gained steady elevation. Except for a couple of narrow creek crossings, it didn't require hiking in the water. My neoprene socks worked well, and kept my feet warm between crossings. It was blazing hot with little tree cover. The colors all around me were vibrant - green trees, red sandstone, blue sky and white clouds - truly a beautiful tableau.
In the second half hour of hiking, the trail was directly alongside the river - sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other. Crossings occured more frequently. I tried to stay out of the water whenever I could, since it was ice cold. Also, with the fast flowing water, I had to be very cautious. One misstep and I could easily turn an ankle. The water was brown with sediment, so I couldn't see rocks or depth below the surface. I used my trekking pole to feel ahead for where to put my feet.
Then I came the place when all riverside trails ended. There was no more walking out of the water. To continue up the slot canyon, I had to hike in the water, with sheer cliffs on either side . I took a snack break and gathered my courage.
Into the water I went! It was knee high and rushing fast. As I walked and fought the icy current I realized one slip and this hike was over - I would be too cold to continue. Sometimes if I stayed along the walls it was a little more shallow, but down the middle it was definitely over my knees or higher. With no break from the icy water, my feet got colder and colder. Neoprene or not, they were freezing. I stopped after about 30 feet in and took this photo back toward the slot entrance.
I hiked on. At times I'd put my hands on the canyon walls for balance, and I made good use of my trekking pole. I was super worried about falling and getting any other part of my body wet besides my legs. Every once in a while there would be a sand bar in a crevice of the canyon - a chance to be out of the water completely. I would stop to rest, squish the water out of my boots and socks to try to feel my feet, and take a look around. This was the view straight up at one such stop.
It was very slow going. Between the cold water and needing to concentrate on every step, my energy was sapping away. After what felt like an hour of hiking in the river in the slot canyon (but was probably only 30 minutes) I saw the first waterfall and a metal ladder up ahead:
The noise made by the crashing waterfall was deafening. The air felt charged with kinetic energy.
The water at the base of the falls was deep. I made my way across it and then climbed the ladder. Thankfully it was very sturdy, and it was a relief to be out of the water for a bit.
At the top of the ladder and across a small pool was the Kannara Falls Boulder. Snowmelt mountain water gushed around both sides. I had read that sometimes there are knotted ropes at this section to help climbers scramble up the Boulder, but from my perch at the top of the ladder I couldn't see any.
This was where my slot canyon journey ended. To continue to the second falls I would have had to wade the icy pool and then climb on the boulder or through the small waterfall on the right. A young woman - clearly familiar with the terrain - went around me and continued on, so I knew it was possible. But I couldn't see where she went after she waded through the pool. I decided it wasn't for me. I took some more photos and videos of the canyon and the rushing water, then turned around and headed back down the ladder.
The hike out was arduous - I won't lie. Miraculously I made it out of the river section without falling in.
When I reached dry land I recorded a short video for Gina:
"Hey Gina. My feet are blocks of ice. I can't really feel them, even though I have neoprene socks. (Nervous laughter.) This is wearing me out. I'm glad that I have a shower and maybe even a hot tub to look forward to, to warm up my feet - which I think are still down there. I miss you! This would have been fun with ya. But it would have been a lot on our first day, and I'm glad we didn't do it then. I got nothin' to do but rest and drive tomorrow. So I'll be able to recover. I gotta go. I gotta get in the water again."
I was proud of myself. Had I really just done that??
Guess what? We can do hard things.*
Sojourn on!
For additional pictures of my Kanarra Falls adventure, click here.
(*credit Glennon Doyle)
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